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How to Store your Car
for the long term
- A CAR is always better off stored indoors, preferably in a cool, dark, dry environment. Ideally the temperature should never drop below freezing.
- NEXT, THE ENGINE. Change the oil and filter as close as possible to putting it away. Do not store a car with old oil in it. The contaminants in it will wreak havoc on the metal parts. Ideally, a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer or Tufoil additive, (1 Litre or 1 Quart) - both are excellent products - should be put in when changing the oil. The car should be run for about two hours prior to shutdown. Pull the spark plugs and pour about a teaspoonful of fresh engine oil into each cylinder, then replace the plugs. This helps coat the cylinders with protective oil.
- ALL ENGINE OPENINGS, particularly the air cleaner and oil breather cap, should be packed with absorbent cloth. The same applies to the exhaust pipe, but remember to wait until it has cooled. Cotton towels works well. With the exception of packing the exhaust pipe, these engine procedures should be done when the engine is warm, not cold. The reason being you will be sealing moisture in instead of keeping it out when cold. Ideally the engine should be started once or twice a year and run for at least 30 minutes. If this cannot be done, then at least the above procedures will offer you maximum protection.
- DRAIN THE FUEL SYSTEM. Any gasoline left in the bottom of the tank should be syphoned out. Then run the engine until all the gas in the fuel lines, carburettor, fuel pump, injectors and other system parts is used up. Unless you are going to run the engine once or twice during the 6 month period - 30 minutes each run time.
- RADIATOR COOLANT should NOT be drained, unless the coolant is more than two years old. There is an exception to this advice however. If any part of the engine is aluminium, DRAIN THE SYSTEM. The electrolysis set up by the aluminium and coolant combination can corrode and ruin the engine.
- THE BATTERY should be removed and charged before being stored away. Stand it on cardboard down in the basement. It should then be trickle charged about every 8 - 10 weeks. Remember, though, to charge it in an area with plenty of ventilation, as the fumes given off are corrosive, and explosive if near a naked flame.
- RELEASE the tension on all drive belts in the engine. Top off the transmission and rear-axle fluids (if applicable). If your car transmission fluid hasn't been changed in the last 30,000 kms, it would be a good idea to do so.
- BRAKE SYSTEMS should also be left wet. If the fluid is old, change it. Old brake fluid will corrode and pit metal brake-system parts, given enough time.
- IF THE CAR is being stored for a year or more, then put it on blocks or jack stands. This takes the pressure off the wheel bearings, shock absorbers and other suspension parts. Remove the tires if they are in good condition. Leave them mounted on the rims and slightly reduce the air pressure; store them on their sides, out of sunlight. If you can't put the car on blocks, then add another 10 to 15 lbs of air to them.
- IF THE CAR is stored indoors, it is best left uncovered. If stored outside, then a good quality car cover is recommended. A frame should hold it above the finish so that it won't rub the paint. The car should be washed and waxed, and you should rub silicone preservative on all rubber door weather stripping and any other rubber parts.
- IF THE CAR is stored outside, cover the dash, rear deck shelf and upholstery with clean white sheets or towelling. Cover all the windows so the sunlight doesn't penetrate, but leave one of them open just slightly.
- KEEP A LIST of all the things you have done and place it in the car. When you return you will know exactly what you have to do to get the car moving again. (Retighten belts, take out engine packing etc.etc.)
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